UKC

Ken Palmer new 8c at Ansteys and 8a DWS

Dave Henderson reports on his website javu.co.uk that legendary south west activist Ken Palmer has Deep Water Soloed Christine, his 8a at Long Quarry Point and redpointed his link-up of the Ferocity Wall at Ansteys at 8c.

Christine is located in the Blowhole pinnacle area of Long Quarry Point, where Ken also Deep Water Soloed a superb 7b+ named Blue Planet a couple of years ago. His new 8c takes a rising traverse line from bottom right to the top left of the Ferocity Wall. It starts up his 8b Poppy, then crosses Fisherman's Tale before reversing Postman Pat into Tuppence. The route then follows Tuppence before moving left to climb to a tufa finish. The route doesn't have a name yet and it's not yet known whether this is the last of Palmer's Ferocity Wall projects!


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5 Aug, 2003
Bet it turns out to be harder than 8c!
5 Aug, 2003
Is this the route Ken had his quick-draws nicked out of? Does anyone know if he got them back? Rob Sutton or Stu Littlefair for the second ascent?
5 Aug, 2003
Yup, same route... So now people may understand why they where nicked rather than found. The faff needed to get them back would have been a right pain in the arse
5 Aug, 2003
full repect for him it looks amazing and really ballsy ( rather than just hard moves ) pictures are excellent too. ( not splashing one! although thats cool in its own right )
Go Ken! The Barnet is back!, etc His DWS of this route is quite ballsy - as you can see from the photos if you blow the crux you (just) miss a big ole rock. I'm not sure if you'd hit this or not if you fell of the bottom section (which is pretty hard). The 8c is ridiculously sustained, and yes, I wouldn't be surprised if it turns out to be a tad harder, after all it does link almost all of an 8b+, into reversing the crux of an 8a+, after which you do most of another (hard) 8a+ to gain the (hard) 7c finishing headwall. Phew! I'm certain it will take a long while to get repeated, as the line is perhaps a bit convoluted to tempt luminaries like Steve Mac down again, and both Rob and I have our eyes on other things for the time being...having said that, someone like Liam Halsey or Rich Simpson might pop over and sneak it in! On a further note - is "E10 Ken" the coolest hard climber in Britain? The guy's a legend. He's so timid he was headpointing the 7c+s at Ceuse, yet he's soloed 8a, climbed E10 and repeated nearly all of the hardest trad routes in the SW! bizarre!
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