MacLeod repeats controversial M12

Dave MacLeod has made the 2nd ascent of Scott Muir's controversial Dry Tooling route Too Fast, Too Furious, M12. Dave redpointed the 40 metre roof climb in 6 trys over 4 days. The route crosses the ceiling of a huge quarried slate cave dubbed 'The Tube' in Birnam quarry near Dunkeld. Other routes worldwide given the M12 grade include Musashi and Vertical Limit. With no previous experience of dry tooling routes, Dave has declined to comment on the grade of Too Fast....

Also in Birnam Quarry, Dave flashed the 1st ascent of Wicked, Wild, M9, which climbs a thin seam.

Summer dry tooling involves climbing with leashless ice tools and crampons (often competition style) on routes previously unclimbed by other means. Dry Tooling seems to be gaining in popularity in Scotland with at least 2 dedicated DT walls and all 4 tooling routes in Birnam Quarry receiving at least one repeat and lots of attention.

This has been read 1,342 times
Return to News from September 2003