Cubitt mixed success continues

After the recent success of Chris Cubitt and Dave Macleod redpointing Vertical Limit (M12) at Uschinen in Switzerland, attention turned to Cogne in Italy. Cubitt made impressive flashes of both Stevie Haston neo classics, X Files (M9+) and The Empire Strikes Back (M10+ - now M11 after Scott Muir broke a hold). These routes aren't bolted with the rock sections being climbed above dodgy pegs - not exactly sport climbing with axes!

Cubbit is back out to the Alps soon and then off to Canada, where he hopes to try Musashi, Will Gadd's 12 metre roof route from 2001, which, with 8 figure four moves on it, is supposed to be more technical than Vertical Limit and "solid M12". No doubt Cubitt will also be tempted to try Ben Firth's adjacent 'The Game' whilst he is there. Established this January, Firth has graded it M13, saying that it's length and 8 and a half foot pulls make it considerably harder than Musashi - he even had to pay people to belay him on it!

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DougG

3 Feb, 2004

I'm surprised there hasn't been a stronger reaction to this blatant bit of commercial willy-waving.

DougG

3 Feb, 2004

Unfortunately I believe it's 100% genuine.

Michael Ryan

3 Feb, 2004

This was at planetfear.com "January 21 2004: British Climbers Kick Ice An on form British team of mixed climbers consisting of Chris Cubitt, Dave MacLeod, Scott Muir and Matt Spenceley have just left the new world class mixed venue of Uschinen in Switzerland after making some world class ascents in quick times. The biggest repeats were Cubitt and MacLeod's ascents of Vertical Limit M12 (one of only 4 M12s worldwide). Cubitt took just three tries and MacLeod five tries to redpoint the 45 metre roof climb, first climbed by Robert Jasper last year. The World's best female mixed climber, Ines Papert also repeated Vertical Limit, the first ascent of this grade by a female. Chris, Dave, Scott and Matt also pulled off a brace of M10 repeats, the best efforts being Scott's flash of Power Limit M10 and Chris' onsight of Pink Panther M9+. Dave has returned to Scotland to rock climb, but the rest of the team are moving on to the Ice world championships in Saas Fee this weekend and then on to Italy to climb The big Haston routes. Good luck guys! Chris Cubitt: * Vertical Limit M12 three tries * Pink Panther M9+ onsight * Slice of Scheiss M10- 1st RP * Power Limit M10 1st RP * Tool Time M10+ 1st RP * Power Bat M10- 1st RP * Via Regine M9- onsight Dave MacLeod: * Vertical Limit M12 five tries * Tool Time M10+ 1st RP * Power Limit M10 1st RP * Twin Towers M10 1st RP * Power Bat M10- 1st RP * Roth M8- onsight Scott Muir: * Tool Time M10+ 2nd RP * Power Limit M10 flash * Twin Towers M10 1st RP * Power Bat M10- 2nd RP * Slice of Scheiss M10- 1st RP * Pink Panther M9+ 1st RP * Samurai M8 first ascent Matt Spenceley: * Power Limit M10 1st RP * Power Bat M10- 1st RP * Slice of Scheiss M10- 1st RP "

yer maw

3 Feb, 2004

I've just seen the future. Where's am coat?

DrGav

3 Feb, 2004

*yawn* All i can see is the usual slagging off against someone who, judging from the Planetfear extract, has done pretty damn well. This someone also appears to be in the British team. I've seen far worse 'big up my fat chest' statements than old Muir's.

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