UKC

Dave Pickford Climbs Major New Route at Pentire

Dave Pickford has climbed a significant route at pentire Head on the North Devon Coast. Wall of Spirits, E8 6b, takes the impressive blank wall left of the top pitch of Leviathan. Javu.co.uk has more information including a full route description.

This post has been read 1,892 times

Return to Latest News


11 Oct, 2004
Disappointing because he put some pegs in, or disappointing because he didn't use bolts? I can't believe you are seriously suggesting the latter.
11 Oct, 2004
i think he meant the first.. but whats more disappointing is that everyone thinks pentire head is in devon...
11 Oct, 2004
North Cornwall would be closer to the mark
11 Oct, 2004
11 Oct, 2004
Before dismissing Mike raine's comments wholeheartedly, the issue of fixed protection is a serious one, particularly on sea cliffs. I have replaced pegs on many climbs including two at Pentire, and although I tried to use stainless pegs there are problems: 1. Extremely limited range and availability of stainless pegs means only certain pegs can be replaced 2. Its sometimes not possible to remove the old peg cleanly leaving a blocked placement. Consequently, although Dave Pickford's route is a superb personal effort, it may remain just that. Most people like their new routes to be enjoyed by others, but routes of this nature seldom receive ascents due to the difficulty of maintaining the quality of the protection. I don't want to see bolts all over Pentire, but I wish some alltrustic company (or BMC?) would look into providing a full range of stainless steel pegs. I tried a few years ago with little success, but I did get a specification from a specialist steel company.
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email