UKC

Hard British Ascents in the High Atlas

© Dave Pickford
Jack Geldard Seconding on Les Rivieres Pourpres  © Dave Pickford
Jack Geldard Seconding on Les Rivieres Pourpres
© Dave Pickford, Oct 2005
A strong British and Finnish team have just returned from the Taghia area of the Atlas mountains in Morocco. Dave Pickford, Mike 'Twid' Turner, Jack Geldard, Steve Mayers and Juha Saatsi (Fin) managed the first British ascents of many classic hard routes in the area.

They climbed as two independent teams with Jack, Dave and Juha free-climbing Fantasia (F7b+/7c 700m) almost onsight (1 pitch redpointed) and onsighting Rivieres Pourpres, an Arnaud Petit route from 2003 (F7c, 500m).

Steve and Twid teamed up to make fast alpine-style ascents of Les Rivieres Pourpres and L'Axe du Mal (F7c+, 600m), another Petit route.

The climbing area is remote, requiring a day of off-road driving and donkey trekking to reach the base of the mountains, but the teams found the rock to be of Verdon quality, only twice as long. Most of the routes had been bolted on lead, so include very steep climbing and runout sections where natural gear is needed. For more information on Taghia, see Alpinist.com.


This post has been read 3,314 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

Comments

Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest