UKC

Sharma Climbs Stunning Line

Chris Sharma has climbed a stunning new route on a giant granite boulder below The Chief in Squamish, B.C, Canada and has not only named it but given it a grade too. Dreamcatcher takes a sloping hand rail across a forty degree overhanging wall which starts with a sidewards/backwards double dyno and finishes on microscopic crimps and another massive dyno. He bolted the line and after his successfull redpoint contemplated that it might be 5.14c or 5.14d (Fr 8c+ or 9a).

UKClimbing.com asked Josh Lowell of Big Up Productions, who filmed the ascent (See photos and report at Big UP Productions), wassup with Chris grading the route?

"He's guessing 14c or 14d. It's not that he's against ratings in general, it's just that he usually doesn't know. I think he finds it easier to guess on a route than on a boulder where it has more to do with specific strengths. I don't know."

Whatever. Now if you are a grading fiend as many of us are check out the outakes in Mike Week's DVD Depth Charge, where Chris Sharma is involved in a heated grade debate primarily with Steve McClure. It's quite an eye-opener. McClure beat Sharma at the Petzl Roc Trip at Squamish.

Lowell, videographer of Free Hueco, Rampage and the Dosage series, went on to say, " The route represents the logical progression of today's strongest boulderers bringing dynamic, powerful movement to bear on hard new sport climbs."

But there again, what has Sharma done on Grit?



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