UKC

Scott Muir Repeats Europe’s hardest Mixed Climb

Scott Muir has made an impressive repeat of Europe's hardest continental mixed climb, Game Over M13 at Drylands near Innsbruck, Austria. The route was first climbed by Albert Leichtfried in Jan 05 and had remained unrepeated despite the attentions of a number of top climbers. It follows a spectacular line across the roof of a cave then downward through the centre of an archway, which provides a long sustained crux, before finally pulling through to a thin vertical finish.

  Scott despatched the route on his first redpoint but had to survive several 'nearly off' moments through the long crux. The ascent followed just two sessions of working the moves and was in 'comp style', ie. no heel spurs on axes. Hot Aches Productions were on hand to film the ascent. See the Hot Aches website.  

Also at Drylands, Scott flashed Happy M10, and made quick work of Tension M12- climbing it on his first redpoint after just a very brief session trying the moves across the roof.  

Other Scotland based climbers were also in good early season form at Drylands, having escaped the Scottish thaw for a brief trip. Fiona Murray was suitably chuffed to climb Happy M10, her third route at this grade but her first in Europe. Dave Brown also climbed this and the superb overhanging prow of Fontok M11-.  

Drylands is a superb new mixed climbing venue that already contains probably the hardest collection of mixed climbs in Europe. The southeast facing crag is at 1300m and has a long season, from December to March. With scope for many more lines at all grades, and also with other good ice climbing venues nearby, Innsbruck is certain to become a major winter destination for the visiting climber.



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