UKC

Lucy Creamer Gets Second 8b

© Tim Glasby
With onsights of E6, E7 and 8a, a first ascent of an M9 in Colorado (that recently got retrobolted because no-one could repeat it) Lucy Creamer has now added a second 8b redpoint to her impressive climbing CV, her first was Huecool at Gordale Scar. Climbing in France late spring and early summer she proved that she was on fire.

At Ceuse Lucy onsighted several 7c+'s and redpointed two 8a+'s, first and second go, that is putting the clips in then redpointing next go. At St. Leger she onsighted several 7c's and redpointed another 8a+ first go. Prior to Ceuse at La Balme she redpointed an 8a that she nearly onsighted, she says, "I was millimetres away from doing it, very frustrating."

It was at St. Leger du Ventoux, France, that Lucy pulled out all the stops on an ascent of Abregnief, a steep and powerful roof and wall with three distinct cruxes that weighs in at 8b. The route took her 5 days of practice with a three day rest to unlock the sequence and reach the chains in one push.


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14 Aug, 2006
She certainly is an awesome climber. :0)
14 Aug, 2006
Typical Rocktalk schoolboy remark, and not even funny. What amazes me most about Lucy is that she has maintained the very highest standard for such a long time - she must have been Britain's best woman climber for close to 15 years now which is an amazing career for a top sports person.
14 Aug, 2006
Thats a pretty impressive record for any sport, there's not many who can say they've been at the top of their game for that long.
14 Aug, 2006
Yeah, Lucy is fabulous. I was involved making a film with her about 4 years ago (on Flying Buttress Direct). She made it look, rather unsurprisingly, about V Diff, but done with superbly flowing gymnastic style.
15 Aug, 2006
Its a brilliant achievement by Lucy but also a bit sad that her crown hasn't really been under threat - it would be good to see a few others in the UK consistantly at that level.
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