UKC

Dave Macleod on Indian Face/Trauma E9's

© Hot Aches
Breaking news down the forums, courtesy of Alasdair Fulton, reports that down North Wales (the happening place) Dave Macleod has been very busy indeed with a thorough look at (and opinion on) Johnny Dawes's masterpiece Indian Face, which he decided not to lead, and making the third ascent of the non-slabby E9, Trauma, first climbed by Leo Houlding (who is on Everest today) and that was recently repeated by James Pearson.

Dave's take on Indian Face:

" The climbing wasn't very technical, just standing up on many very small toe edges for 100 feet. You can take both your hands off on any move on the whole thing, but it's still super thin on the toes. My feet hurt! Foot cramp was putting me off at first, but then later when I thought about leading the route, I realised that the only thing that would make me fall off would be the snappy nature of the some of the footholds or one of my feet randomly skidding. Both were relatively likely and although the RP protection was not nearly as bad as I had read, there is still the possibility to die in a fall from the end of the hard part. So I sacked it and went in search of something more motivating to climb."

UKC news did hear that Dave had bagged Indian Face and was trying Trauma when we were down there Thursday, it was hot!

You can read more of Dave's thoughts on Indian Face and Trauma at davemacleod.blogspot.com

And of course additional perspective including lots of photographs from those be everywhere chaps at Hot Aches at hotaches.blogspot.com

Word on the street in Llanberis tonight was that Pete Robins and James McHaffie were both near to repeating Trauma.


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10 Jun, 2007
Perhaps he should have asked DJViper for Beta;-)
11 Jun, 2007
So do we assume that Indian Face is the 'harder' route then? Chris
11 Jun, 2007
I believe "not justifiable at the grade" is the phrase that springs to mind. It holds true today just as well as when I first used it on Crack & Corner all those years ago ;)
11 Jun, 2007
Stonnis Crack I think. Chris
11 Jun, 2007
I believe that the route stands the test of time, and will do so. Different style route to an of ascent to Trauma. like anything natual it is succetable to change, The RUUP and flake, improved nut placements.... before people who have not been on the route letalone climbed E9 let the Dawes, Nick and Neil reply as they have done it, others have tried also so please lets not pass -ve judgement too soon... Im sure if it was a shit route Dave Macleod would have said so diectly rather than some coded cryptic clue... good attempt Dave the Indian Face is still waiting for you ... when you are ready...
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