Pakistan’s Beautiful Virgin Summit Climbed

© Christian Trommsdorff
Himalayan veterans Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff from France have climbed a difficult route in pure alpine style to make the first ascent of 7,350-meter Pumari Chhish South. Trommsdorff, who had attempted the peak twice in 2003, called the granite and ice pyramid in Pakistan's Hispar Mustagh region “perhaps the most beautiful virgin summit in the world.”

The two men climbed the 2,700-meter south face in four and a half days, with another day and a half for the descent. Sustained rock, mixed, and ice climbing between 6,400 meters and 7,000 meters formed the crux, with free climbing on excellent granite up to 5.10- and M6; the two aided one 50-foot overhanging chimney crack. They descended by downclimbing and about 35 rappels. Trommsdorff said the face somewhat resembled the north face of the Eiger, “except that it's twice as high and twice as long, and the rock is an absolutely splendid granite.”

In addition to the French climbers' attempts, this line had been tried twice by Julie Ann Clyma and Roger Payne.....

Dougald MacDonald, gives us the full story, with photos, at:

This post has been read 3,638 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

5 Jul, 2007
Thanks for posting this, I had heard they got up it but not seen the reports.
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest