UKC

Women's Team Pioneers Pakistani Free Route

© Luisa Giles
The Anglo-Canadian team of Luisa Giles, Sarah Hart, and Jacqueline Hudson has established a 3,000-foot free route on a 17,000-foot rock spire near the base of Latok III in Pakistan. The three women completed The Partition (TD 5.10b, 900 meters) on their third attempt in a three-day round trip from base camp on the Choktoi Glacier. The trio climbed the east face of the right-hand of two twin buttresses, with 19 pitches and about 300 meters of simul-climbing. They opted to end their climb at a subpeak, about 100 horizontal meters away from the highest point, because the traverse to the slightly higher peak would have required loose, unpleasant climbing and a different descent than planned.

Read the full report by Dougald MacDonald at Climbing.com.


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21 Sep, 2007
Good effort. Didn't Louisa post on here at one point? recall some pics of her on various grit routes iirc
21 Sep, 2007
Yep - didn't she have an amusingly combative style? There was something slightly controversial about her post anyway... perhaps she just felt E0 was crap and told Fiend so! :-) A fine effort anyway. It's a great looking line on fine lump of rock. 5.10b - I could even do that.... oh dreams, dreams... they get you through the day.
21 Sep, 2007
It did involve Fiend actually but I think it was because she claimed Parallel Piped at E4 (the guide grade) and Fiend called her on it as its really only E2. I wish I had a memory for useful stuff.
21 Sep, 2007
Yes she did seem to get into the odd scrape. Something to do with photos of her, or their labels, being somewhat self congratulatory? I have checked and her profile and pics no longer seem to be on UKC. Shame, as some of them were rather inspirational. Anyway, fine effort in a superb setting.
21 Sep, 2007
There's a knack to posting on forums. My first few posts were a disaster too. It's a pity when potentially inspirational people get put off.
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