UKC

Dickson Chops Bolts, No Practice And An E9 Emerges

© Simon Cardy
Simon Cardy

This has been read 26,253 times
In September Neil Dickson reclimbed Hey Gringo on Black Crag (Lundy Island ) without the bolts, renaming it Quetzalcoatl with a suggested grade of E9 6b. Prior to his ascent Neil removed the 5 bolts placed by Gary Gibson in 1988. After a steady start in the lower section (E6 6b territory) the route turns hardcore with a whole heap of run out 6b moves stacked on top of each other with only three skyhooks and an RP Zero as the last gear.

Unlike most routes at this level Neil was at pains not to rehearse any of the moves on a top-rope.

More at www.javu.co.uk/Climbing/News.

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Comments

A Longleat Boulderer
1 Oct, 2007
Why chop bolts from 1988? Why not just climb the route without them, or tape them over like Martin Crocker...
ExBristolian
1 Oct, 2007
ave a look at the javu web page. There's a photo of the bolts - they look in pretty good nick. Lundy is bolt free, they should have come out a long time ago.
Skyfall
1 Oct, 2007
As to the bolt chopping, another stand as per the Big Issue? But E9 6b ?!
Alex1
1 Oct, 2007
Looks like a good effort especially with no practice on the moves. The article mentions that he wasn't sure of the grade and that was suggested by Dave Pickford.
Paz
1 Oct, 2007
Cheers I was just looking for this earlier today. why not not place them in the first place and leave the route for someone else, unlike Gary, and occasionally Martin.
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