UKC

Neil Mawson downgrades Pickford's E9

© Alan James
In May we reported that Dave Pickford climbed new route at St Govan's Head in Pembroke, The Brothers Karamazov which Dave gave E9 6c. It takes the groove of Pat Littlejohn's 1986 route Crimes of Passion (E6) at the Public Enemy Area then climbs direct where Crimes moves right. Protected in part by a downward pointing peg (an 8mm placement) and involving tenuous 6c climbing, Dave utilised two belayers, Simon Cockman and Dave Walsh, to take advantage more effectively of widely spaced gear in a horizontal break. Ground fall potential is almost certain from the routes upper reaches UKClimbing report)

This route was soon repeated by Dave Birkett who thought it soft for the grade (UKClimbing report).

Dave Pickford responded by saying that, "A lot of nonsense gets thrown around the climbing community about grades these days, in which the grade seems to take on more importance than the climb itself, which seems bizarre and illogical. I gave 'The Brothers Karamazov' a grade that reflects how challenging I found it to be, both in comparison to the harder routes in Pembroke and to other difficult routes in the UK I have climbed." (UKClimbing report).

This just in from Neil Mawson.

"I repeated Dave Pickford's The Brothers Karamazov at St Govan's on Friday the 19th October after top rope practice.

This was first climbed utilising a hand-placed peg for protection, placed by abseil prior to the ascent and removed after. Dave Birkett also did this for the second ascent but commented the route was easy for the grade.

I placed all the gear on lead and so eliminated the peg. I also thought the route was overgraded and should be E8 6c even without the pre-placed peg. It is around 7c+ to top rope, so easier than Chupracabra and San Simeon (both E8), but it is a bit bolder than both. I don't think you would hit the floor from any of the hard moves but you'd come close! For me it felt easier to lead than when I did Chupracabra 2 years ago."


This post has been read 27,377 times

Return to Latest News


22 Oct, 2007
Not my headline I'm afraid.
22 Oct, 2007
Twas the headline Neil sent in. To be sure the point was made presumably.
22 Oct, 2007
The point and the history so far, from Dave's ascent, to Dave B's repeat (with video) and comments, to Dave P's justification, to Neil Mawson's ascent are quite clearly documented and referenced (linked) in the news report. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=10&year=2007#40726
22 Oct, 2007
It is an interesting story. Dave Pickford establishes one of Pembrokes hardest routes. A grade of E9 is proposed by Dave Pickford. He gives his reasons for this grade. It has two repeats, both think it is E8. Both give reasons for their proposed grade. Consensus with three ascents, E8. Further, Neil Mawson improves the style of ascent by placing gear on the lead and not placing the peg. Our beloved yet flawed grading system in action. No idea what the hardest route is in Pembroke....you talking boldest, hardest move, most sustained or perhaps a combination? Mick
22 Oct, 2007
what e9s are left in pembroke now that mawson's put this and chupacabra down to e8? i can only think big issue...
More Comments
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email