New 8a+ on High Tor, Hooligan 8c gets repeated

On Sunday 4th November Jon Clark, 23, of Matlock freed the aid route Limelight on High Tor. This was previously a project of Malcolm Taylors' who nearly freed it in 1992, and suggested a possible grade of 8c.

The route, as yet unnamed, climbs the big roof to the left of Castellan, on the left side of the main face, and then onto a short pocketed wall above to the Castellan belay. Jon told us that, "The grade however may differ depending on how tall you are, as the roof has a big span move on it. I felt that 8a+ was about right."

In other Peak limestone news, Paul Smitton has done the second ascent of Steve Dunning's Hooligan 8c at Raven Tor. This route starts with a hard and seldom climbed boulder problem start given Font 8a+ and then finishes with 8b climbing to its anchors.

On Grit, a Mr Justice Cocklecarrot reports that Czech climber Michal Madera made a ground-up ascent of Narcissus, E6 6b at Froggat last Sunday. You can read a first hand report, comment and view photos at this thread

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