UKC

VIDEO: New Wave of Hard Problems Hits North Wales

With the onset of cooler climbing conditions, the North Wales bouldering scene has been set alight by a flurry of hard ascents. Up at the Craig yr Wrysgan boulders above Tan y Grisiau, Chris Davies and Adam Hocking delivered the goods on two very hard problems. Firstly from Chris, is New Noise (V12/Font 8a+), which climbs directly through the steepness on the traverse of Geoff's Roof via a couple of unfeasible undercuts (1/4 first joint).

Chris had the following to say about the line: “This is one of the best in a while for me. No siege tactics required this time, although last week I did drive away utterly dismayed at the difficulty of the crux move, and had pretty much given up doing it this season. A couple of days later, I got really pissed off at myself for being so defeatist, and so made the journey up to Tan again. This time I got psyched out of my mind, and hit the lip four times, although I could not hold it at all - that's better I thought - next session then! And so it was.”

100m further down the dam road, Adam Hocking powered his way through a fierce traverse line rising across the steep face of the Chris' Kashmir Curry block. Hippocampus (V11/12/Font 8a/8a+) kicks in straight away with two exceptionally difficult moves: a powerful crossover to a poor crimp, and then all out dynamic lung to a horizontal slot. (NB. See p170 in the North Wales Bouldering guide for location details of this little frequented area.)

Over on the Llandudno Ormes, Chris Doyle completed his long-term project link up on Pill Box Wall. Drink Driving (V12/Font 8a+) is essentially a right to left traverse of the main Pill Box Wall. Chris had been struggling with the redpoint over the last year and he finally succeeded on his 43rd session. Less determined types may have walked away long since, but Chris showed impressive levels of conviction, returning time and time again, knowing that one day he would make it to the end.

VIDEO: Chris has made a short film detailing the protracted battle that he endured to complete this most epic of problems at youtube.com



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