Eiger Record Broken by Rising Stars of Alpinism

© Roger Schali
On January 28, 2008 young guns Simon Anthamatten (1983) and Roger Schali (1978) made a speedy ascent of the classic 1938 route on the Eiger's North face. They needed 6 hours and 50 minutes to climb from bottom to top, a new team (seilschaft) record.

"Are we still ahead of Ueli?" Anthamatten joked at the top, referencing Ueli Steck's 3:54 solo ascent, which currently holds the record for the route and the face.

Of recent note Schali climbed the new route Magic Mushroom on the Eiger, and Anthamatten broke the retour record on Europe's other most famous classic, the Matterhorn's Hornli Ridge. Anthamatten also won the ice climbing World Cup in Val Daone, Italy the week before.

See the full report on the Alpinist Website.

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7 Feb, 2008
Are they the climbers in the Beckoning Silence film?
7 Feb, 2008
Ok so I've borrowed "The White Spider" by Heinrich Harrer from a certain YHA in the Lakes last w/e. I've read it before, but what a great read and I couldn't resist another reminder......I'm up to the summer of 1938. Naturally I intend returning it. Of course, if anyone wants to borrow from me, that's fine too. I wonder where the real gains were in getting up so much speedier? Gear? prior knowledge? ability?
7 Feb, 2008
8 Feb, 2008
Does that also apply to borrowing books from libraries?! Perhaps it's your book - as you are from the Lakes I see. Anyway - any intelligent discourse on why faster would be interesting.
8 Feb, 2008
Perhaps not in terms of bouldering/sport climbing. Alpinism does seem to take longer to master - there is a lot more experience to be gained. Many Alpinists come in to their prime in their 30's IMO. 25 is young to be operating at the highest level. Not exceptionally young, but still young. That's my opinion anyway. Jack 'old git' Geldard
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