UKC

Josune Bereziartu turns to winter Alpinism

© Josune Bereziartu
On March 14, 2008, Josune Bereziartu and her husband Rikar Otegui — both known almost exclusively for their sport climbing achievements—put up a seven-pitch alpine scarefest on the north face of Pena Telera (2764m) in the Spanish Pyrenees. Their new line, Frenesi (Frenzy: ED+: III/IV M6/7 R, 450m), they climbed onsight and ground up over seven hours, placing only natural protection.

"My alpine experience has been very short because I mostly sport climb, but in the past two years I've been gradually seduced by alpinism," Bereziartu said. "Frenzy was the first alpine route that I opened, so it gave me perspective on what's mentally and physically difficult for me. This route was hard for me, especially because many of the placements were pretty poor, which didn't give me much confidence."

Full Report (with action photo) on the Alpinist Website.


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29 Mar, 2008
Wow -really, really impressive. This must place Josune as the best all round climber in the world.
30 Mar, 2008
that factor two fall ripping out the belay is a brown pants moment for sure, v lucky! Supported by one axe they hurriedly rebuilt the anchor.
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