If you plan or have a desire to climb the North Face of the Eiger you can read David Gladwin's story of his and Jim Broomhead's ascent at UKClimbing.com -click here to read
I'm currently (re)reading white spider so this article is timely for me. Not something that I would ever attempt but hats off to the guys that do! Steve D
Prior to the first ascent, the death rate was more like 50%--getting off the face alive before 1938 was a notable event! 1/13 death rate sounds about right to me.
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