UKC

Nic Sellers - Trauma E8 7a in 3 hours

On Saturday 28th of June, Nic Sellers, partnered by Pete Robins and Ben Pritchard, made the fastest ascent of Trauma to date. Sellers top roped the route once and then climbed it. Trauma, originally graded E9 by Leo Houlding is now settling at E8 7a. It is a short bouldery route, with a desperate crux sequence protected by a blind wire. Although this would be extremely scary to climb on sight, with a little pre-practice the wire can be placed well and provide adequate protection for the crux. The route is a contender for a flash ascent with this crucial gear beta.

The lower wall is technical and involves some unusual gear - a hand placed pecker over an old peg stub, which I am told is 'bomber', especially when tied down to a handy sapling.

Nic described the route as "A fairly mellow E8. It feels like an E6 to climb up, get the gear in and climb back to the floor, then climbing the route feels like a fairly safe F8a. It's a brilliant route with ace moves in an amazing position above the valley."

Leo Houlding took a ground fall from the route, snapping the peg, before he succeeded in making the first ascent. The peg was made of stainless steel and although looked to be in excellent condition, sheared under body weight. His initial assessment of E9 was not far off the mark, as the crux gear is so blind, but now the pecker placement has been found the crux wire can be placed in 'relative safety'.


Read an interview with Nic on the Moon Website

View Nic's profile on the DMM Website


Thanks to Tom Briggs for breaking this news in the forums



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