UKC

Local News: North Wales Quarry Action

On Friday the 15th of August James McHaffie and Pete Robins set to work on a 1 day attempt of The Quarryman E8 7a, Johnny Dawes' famous four-pitch slate masterpiece. Various pitches of the route have been repeated by the likes of Leo Houlding, John Dunne and Neil Gresham, amongst others, but it is thought that the route hasn't had a complete ascent in a single day.

The McHaffie/Robins team successfully climbed the first three pitches, which include the famous 'groove' pitch, but then were stopped by the top pitch. After the pair began to struggle with a dangerously placed bolt on the final pitch, Johnny Dawes (who was watching their efforts) shouted down that he may have had a quickdraw pre-placed - making the clip a much safer proposition, not realising how it would be to climb without the pre-placed quickdraw. A few minutes later rain came in and thwarted any further attempts to finish the route. McHaffie had to traverse off through some interesting ground to reach The Wonderful World of Walt Disney a neighbouring E6, which the pair promptly climbed in the rain to escape. With the permission of Dawes they may return and slightly change the position of the bolt.

On the same day, down in Ty'n Tywyn Quarry on the sunny Lleyn Peninsular I head-pointed what is thought to be a first ascent. Ring Of Fire E7 6b (F7b+), takes the overhanging wall right of Burning Bush, breaking right from that route at 10 metres. It is completely reliant on three pegs (of unknown origin) for protection. These won't last forever as the crag is coastal - get on it quick. Such is the quality of the route, it has seen a ground-up repeat from Pete Robins and attempts from several other North Wales activists already and is a bit of a hidden gem.

Robins commented: "It's very good, it should be bolted really so the pegs don't rot away."



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