UKC

Check Your CamsGear Alert

Dan Middleton, the BMC's Technical Officer reports:

A recent BMC technical report investigated an incident, where a Rock Empire camming device failed. The climber fell 16m and was lucky not to be badly injured. Take the time to check the wire stems of your flexible cams every now and again...it may save your life.

Flexible camming devices have helped revolutionise modern climbing. It isn't very common, but the flexible wire stems can become damaged by repeated use. Checking for damage isn't always easy with some modern designs, but is worth the effort because damaged wire stems can fail when loaded in a fall. Check for broken wires or signs of corrosion every now and again.

More details with a report from the BMC Technical Committee at : www.thebmc.co.uk


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17 Sep, 2008
I have one RE cam which gets a fair bit of use.....interesting that they haven't responded to the findings.
17 Sep, 2008
I've several, all of which are older than the one in the report...I'll be off to the shop then!
17 Sep, 2008
baffling really. also they still seem to stock a similar ish design to the one inspected. Seems daft that they wouldn't take notice of this and respond or take action/issue a warning.
17 Sep, 2008
Have spoken to manufacturers of the cam as I do know them for more than decade. His response was that they did not receive any report from BMC either direct or via Rock Empire. I will send him copy of the report with translation however at present I am too preocupied with my MIA Assessment. I will keep you posted when I receive his response.
17 Sep, 2008
Check my response to gingerdave 13. You can check your cams by inspecting if there is gap between the plastic sleeve and head of the unit. If there IS this could mean that the cable is damaged as they manufacture these to precisely match side to side (that is what I was told by him).
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