UKC

Kevin Jorgeson - in his own words

Kevin Jorgeson Grounds Up Parthian Shot E9 6c (see news item below).

Kevin writes on his blog, see below, and on the UKClimbing.com forums along with John Dunne, at this topic/thread

Grit Update 3: Success!
24 October 2008
Today was day two going ground up on Parthian Shot. On my forth attempt of the day, something clicked and I stuck the move that has been shutting me down for about 12 attempts: an accuracy and timing dependent dead-point to a pocket.

After sticking the pocket, I nervously matched feet and with curiosity felt the sloping dish that I had looked at so many times before while peeking over the edge from the top. While I was not thrilled with what it offered, I forced myself to continue. I high-stepped with my left foot and began the precarious rock over onto the slab. With such a slow, balance dependent move, I had several occasions to consider the fall. It took ages to stand up on the slab. I was thrilled to be able to reach the arete from the decent foot hold, but several smears were still required before I was safely on top. Luckily, everything stuck and I safely topped out! Psyched!

While this ascent was far from perfect, I am happy to have improved upon previous styles. The next step is a ground up ascent with all gear being placed on lead! Then, perhaps an onsight? Who knows!

Ascent Details:
Day 1:
Arrived at the crag to Ben Bransby going for it ground up as well............

READ MORE AT www.kevinjorgeson.com/Travels.pdf

Kevin is sponsored by Marmot, Asana Packworks, Sterling Rope,Black Diamond, Superfeet, Raw Revolution and Five Ten.



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