Changed Access at Craig Y Forwyn

© Snowdonia Climbing
New information has come to light and the access situation at Craig y Forwyn has changed.

In early December climbing resumed at the crag following discussions with a local farmer who the BMC understood owned the whole of the cliff face and a strip of land along the base. Over the Christmas period however, the owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park (below the crag) has provided evidence to the BMC indicating that he owns the central section of the crag and the land beneath it.

The owner of Plas Newydd has stressed to the BMC that he is not prepared to allow climbing on the section of crag shown on his deeds and site plan.

BMC CEO Dave Turnbull said:

"It was great to see Craig y Forwyn re-opened in early December and it's a real shame that we've had to announce this change in the access arrangements. It's been a moving feast over the last couple of weeks and until the ownership of the central section of the crag is resolved we felt we had no option but to advise people that there is no access agreement for climbing on the central section. Craig y Forwyn is an outstanding limestone crag and we will continue doing what we can to improve the access situation for climbers."

See the BMC Website for full access details.

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8 Jan, 2009
BMC why not offer to buy the whole crag ? access problem solved ?
8 Jan, 2009
Or the caravan site owner could just be reasonable. What harm does it do to him if we climb there?? Dan
8 Jan, 2009
A little history lesson might be in order now! Chris
8 Jan, 2009
Sorry Jack this isn't really directed to you but for Guy or anyone else at the BMC. I thought this was too good to be true. As in my post of 11th Dec where I mentioned the Peregrines and my experiences of the owner Mr D W (just so Guy knows that I do know who the owner is). Was this driven from Manchester or from the local Area? I would be surprised to hear that it was Area driven for 1) because that was the fist I had heard of it and 2) I'd be surprised that local climbers didn't know who the real owner of the most important part of the crag was. It is mistakes like this make me think I ought to get involved with my local BMC more. I have not been to climb since the 'opening' was announced but can anyone tell me how much trespassing occurred on Mr D W's land? How is he? Will this mean that he will say no to me in the future?
8 Jan, 2009
I see those hacks at the Daily Post got in on the act too. David Powell is 2nd only to Eryl Crump for over egging anything but if it is a slow news day then they still have to fill and sell newspapers. Is any of what they say anything like near the truth?
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