UKC

Jerry Moffatt’s Revelations - Master's Wall

© Vertebrate Publishing/Jerry Moffatt
Published this month is Jerry Moffatt's autobiography.

A force in world rock climbing in the 1980s and 1990s, Jerry not only dominated the crags at home in the UK, with cutting edge routes such as Master's Wall and Liquid Ambar, he took his talent and drive to the crags of France, Germany and the USA, repeating the hardest routes in fine style and establishing harder routes of his own. His ability to travel and perform away from home, across a range of climbing disciplines that included the competition circuit, has led many to regard him as the greatest rock climber ever.

UKClimbing.com have an exclusive extract from the book in which the man himself describes the first ascent of his Cloggy test piece Master's Wall:

"I lay-backed higher up the flakes and was soon a long way above the one good nut. I began to feel totally out of control. My feet smeared on little holds I hadn't taken the trouble to clean fully while my fingers crimped desperately on barely-adequate flakes. By now, I was facing a monster fall, perhaps even hitting the ground. I carried on, terrified."

Read the full UKC article: Master's Wall


 The book is scheduled for release on the 26th January and is available to pre-order NOW.
  • Jerrymoffatt.com is live and features short excerpts from the book and pages from Jerry's diary.
  • You can view more info and buy the book on the Vertebrate Publishing website: www.v-outdoor.co.uk

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12 Jan, 2009
Brilliant article, I guess many of todays young climbers cannot understand the fuss,awe and esteem that even Great Wall was held in the early days, I was in Wendy's when the third ascent was done and somebody came running in shouting 'Masters Wall has just been climbed by Dave' (not sure now which Dave it was, maybe Dave Potts?). That was the third ascent. Its good that Jerry named his route Masters Wall, an obvious e-trip but an excellent re-writing of a flaw by Pete.
12 Jan, 2009
I took a dark photo of the second ascent.http://web.me.com/colinmoody/Site/FA.html#9
12 Jan, 2009
As someone inspired by the feats of Moffatt this book was well overdue - ordered a copy already! Good to see V-outdoor website too. Looking forward to receiving it later this month.
12 Jan, 2009
Very amusing the title of "best rockclimber in the world". Whislt I have no doubt he was at the cutting edge, and his routes are a testimony to the fact, I had never heard of him before I move to the UK (much to the incredulity of my British climbing partners). And I read the French mags from around 1991. Each country is very self-centred and rarely gives news from what's going on abroad if none of their nationals are involved... as I still find out when I go home (most ascents in France by French folks are untold in the UK). It is, totally normal, I hasten to say. There's enough to report in one's country... however, titles like this one always seem very biased. A bit like the baseball "world" championship (who the f*ck plays baseball but the Americans!?)
12 Jan, 2009
I think we were on White slab that day ? Was Mike Thomas belaying Stuart ?
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