UKC

Kevin Jorgeson - New Ultra Highball

© BigUp Productions
Kevin Jorgeson has climbed the first ascent of Ambrosia on the Grandpa Peabody boulder in The Buttermilks, Bishop, California.

Described as a V11 boulder problem in to a 5.13a (F7c+) solo, this stunning line has been tried by several climbers over the years.

British climber George Ullrich soloed the upper section of the route last year, after bypassing the lower technical crux with a ladder.

Film maker Dave Gill, who filmed George's ascent described the route:

"George tried for a day or so to figure out the bottom but snapped a hold off. The bottom half is definitely the technical crux, the holds are incredibly small.

Up to about 20ft the landing is reasonable with spotters, above that you're climbing above a sloping boulder which wouldn't be a nice prospect at all. The rock on that face is quite brittle.

It looks incredible though, surprised it's taken this long. It's one of the most obvious lines on the drive to The Buttermilks. It must be hard!"

In the full report (with photos) on the BigUp Blog, there is some detail about the grade:

"He hasn't given it a grade exactly, because it's not obvious whether it should be a route grade or a boulder grade, or (god forbid) an E grade, or what. If it's a boulder problem, then he thinks the hardest moves are only V11, but that doesn't even begin to describe the challenge. If it's a route, then he thinks 5.14a, but that suggests it should be climbed on a rope, which isn't quite right either... so whatever. It's rad."

Thanks go to BigUp for the image, which is a still shot from a forthcoming DVD - watch this space


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9 Jan, 2009
Nice photo - fantastic looking face in a beautiful setting. "He hasn't given it a grade exactly, because it's not obvious whether it should be a route grade or a boulder grade, or (god forbid) an E grade"
9 Jan, 2009
the steep problem looks very ballsy with that landing waiting for those who fail...
9 Jan, 2009
What is a "hueco" in this context?
9 Jan, 2009
Its a big hole in the rock
9 Jan, 2009
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