Little Women E7 7a - On Sight

British Bouldering Team member Dave Barrans has on-sighted Little Women (E7 7a) on the Apparent North buttress of Stanage. This late 90's test-piece was first climbed by John Welford.

The route traverses rightwards to tackle the hanging, blunt nose/arête in the centre of the photograph.

Dave commented on his blog:

"I can't comment on the E grade as this was my first E7 and I haven't really done anything above E5. Bouldering wise it is about 7b+ and probably one of the best 7b+'s I've done."

Jordan Buys first flagged this up on the UKC forums, describing the ascent as:

"Pretty amazing considering that most folk were finding the conditions a little too cold for bouldering."

The Apparent North Buttress is a small, but fierce, lump of gritstone and is home to a tightly packed set of hard routes. The routes are short, almost boulder problems, and are mainly steep and often feature "nose-grinding mantels" as top-outs.

A recent addition to the buttress was made by Aide Jebb (UKC News Item) taking the wall just left of Little Women with his new route Evil Gazebo.

You can follow Dave's climbing at his blog and his website.

Dave Barrans is supported by Beyond Hope, the distributors of Evolv, Prana and Metolius.

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26 Jan, 2009
Wow. Bon effort, as they say. Another Welford 7b+ then?
26 Jan, 2009
Not bad, indeed. Only time I've been on that buttress I was foiled by the ice streak on Apparent North: sounds like pretty similar conditions. jcm
26 Jan, 2009
Impressive, good effort. Do all E7 on-sights get reported or just ones in the Peak? ;)
26 Jan, 2009
This is another example of why E grades tell you little about the real difficulty of short grit routes. At Font 7b+ for the crux, I suspect it is a lot harder on-sight than Balance It Is, Master's Edge, Kaluza Klein, Deathwatch or any other grit 'E7's' that have been on-sighted to date.
26 Jan, 2009
All the ones we get told or find out about. Note: we do have a network of people who report news, including significantly the forums. Geo spread of UKC staff: Alan and Nick in Sheffield, Kevin in Silsden near Skipton, Jack in Llanberis, myself in Ambleside.
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