UKC

World Bouldering Round-Up (with video)

© Dai Koyomada
Dai Koyomada on Epitaf - Font 8C  © Ikuko Serata
Dai Koyomada on Epitaf - Font 8C
© Ikuko Serata
Hard bouldering repeats from all corners of the globe have come in thick and fast in the last few weeks.

Perhaps the cream of the crop is Dai Koyamada's new line, at a proposed grade of Font 8C. Epitaf took the Japanese power-house a year to climb and is an extremely steep wall of volcanic tuff at Horai in Japan.

As reported in this UKC News Item, Australian climber Chris Webb Parsons has had quite a month in Hueco Tanks, climbing multiple hard problems above V12.

The bouldering superstar Dave Graham hasn't been resting much either, with lots of hard problems in the last few weeks, including Crown of Aragorn and Couer de Leon, both Font 8B and both in Hueco Tanks.

Also in Hueco is Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival who has flashed Le Pelerin, Font 8A+, as well as ticking several Font 8B's.

Reported on Bishop Bouldering is Cory French's repeat of Mandala (sit start), Font 8B+. Cory used a new method, described on the blog:

It's a method that will only work for those over a certain height, and Cory, being 6' 3" as well as very strong, found it not too bad and was close to linking these new moves of the sit into the normal start the same day he completed the latter, just last week!”

Back in Europe, British climber Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Teamwork, Font 8A in Chironico, Switzerland.

Over in Fontainebleau, Christopher Schulte ticked Gecko Assis in Fontainebleau.

Tyler Landman also climbed this problem and a whole host of other desperate testpieces. His ticklist for this Font trip includes so far: Surplomb de la Mee (Font 8A+), Kheops (8B) and l'Insoutenable de l'Autre (8B).

You can follow Tyler's bouldering at the Moonblog

The youngsters are putting in good performances too, with 15 year old Niccolo Ceria climbing four Font 8As in two days, including the famous Dreamtime (stand-up). 16 year old Jena Lupia has climbed SitTwist, Font 7C+, marking her 8a.nu scorecard as 'onsight'.

At the other end of the age spectrum, blogger and boulderer Peter Beal has ticked his project at Flagstaff, USA. He has proposed a grade of Font 8A+ for There Will be Blood. You can read Peter's excellent blog here: mountainsandwater.com

Watch Tyler in action on Kheops (Font 8B):

 

Moon logo This clip was filmed by Ben Pritchard of Slackjaw. You can see more of Ben's work on slackjaw.co.uk

Extra thanks to Ben Pritchard and Moon Climbing for the use of this video.

Check out many more videos, including some of Tyler Landman, on the Moon Climbing site.


Sources: 8a.nu, mountainsandwater.com, Moonblog, Bishop Bouldering, chriswebbparsons.com, unclesomebody.com

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20 Feb, 2009
Are you sure that Epitaf is on granite? I find that highly unlikely. I've only seen volcanic tuff in Hourai. It says on Koyamada's blog that the boulderproblem is on an prominent overhanging face seen from the approach to Chichi-iwa, and I cannot for the life of me remember having seen granite there.
21 Feb, 2009
Thanks Jonas, my mistake. Now corrected. Jack
23 Feb, 2009
Point of pedantry - I think "Epitaf" may just be the French translation; "Epitaph" in English.
23 Feb, 2009
Good stuff. James
23 Feb, 2009
That Kheops looks nails. Those slopers look terrible. Good effort from all of them. What song is it on the Landman video? James
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