UKC

Piolet d'Or 2009 & Exclusive Interview

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The nominees for the 2009 Piolet d'Or have been announced. The six climbs are:

  • Yusuke Sato, Fumitaka Ichimura and Kazuki Amano's super-link-up of two routes on Denali (6194m) in Alaska.
  • Yusuke Sato, Fumitaka Ichimura and Kazuki Amano's new route on the north face of Kalanka (6931m) in India.
  • Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi's first ascent of the southeast face of Kamet (7756) in India.
  • Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon Rappaz's new route on the south face of Nuptse (7861m) in Nepal.
  • Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck's new route on the north face of Tengkampoche (6500m) in Nepal.
  • Dave Turner's solo new route on the east face of Cerro Escudo in Chile.

Many of these climbs were detailed in the UKC end of year article: Super Alpine by Kevin Thaw.


UKClimbing have an exclusive interview with Japanese Giri Giri Boy and double Piolet d'Or nominee Yusuke Sato.

The Japanese Giri Giri boys are well regarded throughout the world of mountaineering, but an air of mystery surrounds them and their philosophy. Little is known about the climbers themselves and as we find out in this interview, their hardest ascents often go under the main media radar. Their 16 day route climbed in Japan last year ranks amongst their finest achievements.

Two of the Giri Giri boys were tragically killed recently in Alaska, bringing the total number of members down from seven to five.

Just who are the Giri Giri boys and what are their plans for the next year?

I'd say the hardest climb I have ever done was in Japan. We called it 'Crossing Kurobe'. The route took 16 days to climb and is named after the river Kurobe. Actually the whole mountain range is called Kurobe too.”

Read More in this: UKC Interview


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17 Apr, 2009
Come and support these guys at the Piolets d'or next Saturday 25th. Entrance open to the public. 21.00 Majestice, Chamonix.
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