This years' CWIF proved to be a brilliant success. Competitors came from France, Holland and Spain in addition to the strong showing from the best of the UK's boulderers – old (in the shape of retiree Andy Earl) and new (Tyler Landman).
The circuit and the competition routes were set by a combination of last years' crack team with the addition of the legend that is Jacky Godoffe as well as French National routesetter Tonde Katiyo. The morning's qualifier circuit had all the competitors raving about how good the problems were.
Big news was the participation of former world champion Jerome Meyer. We were all keen to see Jerome pitted against the current man of the moment Tyler Landman, fresh from Fontainbleau. The Dutch national team - always strong competitors, came in force this year, notably Vera Zylstra who finished first last year in the womens' final. This year hotly tipped as a potential winner was up and coming French star Maud Ansade.
Both the semi final and final were held on the Berghaus Competition Wall. The semi final problems would be best described as burly, total physical climbing – technical and powerful. This was never going to be solely about how hard you could crimp. But the best was yet to come.
The men's final, Jerome Meyer, showed all of the class which has made him reigning European champion and brought him world cup success in the past. His smooth climbing and effortless reading of the routes brought him through the semi final and finals but when it came to the final problem he fell from the very last move. Dave Barrans had to climb the last problem to win. He put in a powerful performance on the final problem but he couldn't do the last move. Jerome had won.
The greatest excitement was reserved for the women's final. The last problem was a long and devious test. Maud Ansade fought well to top out on this problem leaving Leah Crane, the last competitor with the pressure of having to complete the problem to win. After having unlocked the start moves and looking very tired, Leah established herself on the upper wall with some impressive problem solving. She managed to grip the finishing hold (photo). The crowd were roaring support as all she had to do was consolidate her grip on the finishing hold – holding it 'in control' as the rules state. She spent some time trying to get a proper grip. She just couldn't hold it and slipped from the final hold. With a few minutes left, Leah gave every effort in an attempt to reach her previous high point but she didn't have enough reserves to make it, leaving Maud Ansade to take the lead by the thinnest of margins imaginable.
Overall the competition was a huge success, the home crowd and international competitors were full of praise for the organizers, fellow climbers and the route setters.
The event was supported by Holdz, Metolious, Five Finger Thing & The Clinic.
- A full report of the day is on the Climbing Works Blog
- The full results from the day can be found HERE
These photos are stills from the video being prepared for the Climbing Works by Dom Green. We hope to show the video on UKC when it is finished.