Back in 2000 Tokio Muroi did the FA of ???(Bansousha) at Ogawayama, Japan., and gave it 5. dan, which translates to 8C. It's a 6m slab and, until this Wednesday, no one had been able to repeat it. Along comes Nalle Hukkataival, who needed one day, to do the 2nd ascent. Brilliant! His suggestion is 8B for this really technical problem. Read the full story on his blog.