Another Nepal First Ascent for American Team

© Joseph Puryear
David Gottlieb on Jobo Rinjang, with a view south across the valley behind.  © Joseph Puryear
David Gottlieb on Jobo Rinjang, with a view south across the valley behind.
© Joseph Puryear
Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) in Nepal only six months after their first ascent of Kang Nachugo (see UKC News) in the Rolwaling Himal, also in Nepal.

Joseph comments on his blog:

"It is with great happiness that David and I report the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct south face, in the Khumbu Region of Nepal, climbing alpine style over 6 days (from April 20 to April 25), summiting on April 22nd."

"We packed up our kit and left base camp in Lunag (5,050 meters) on April 20th. The first part of our journey was to cross the great confluence of the Nangpa La and Lunag Glaciers, then make our way west up the Lunag Glacier to the base of the face. The total distance was over 4 kilometres of very tedious (and perhaps dangerous) rubble-filled, boulder-shifting, ice and rock maze."

David Gottlieb reaching a belay on Jobo Rinjang  © Joseph Puryear
David Gottlieb reaching a belay on Jobo Rinjang
© Joseph Puryear
"We awoke in the wee hours of the morning and started heading up the mess of ice, snow, and rock scrambling to gain the initial ice path. Once we hit the blue ice, we started simul-climbing."

"As we got higher, the going got slower, mainly due to altitude and fatigue. We began to wonder if the ice would ever end. As the day wore on, the weather started changing for the worse, but we continued our ascent, and started pitching out some steeper sections."

"Above our bivy, the climbing changed from ice to our favourite: steep unconsolidated snow flutings.  With no real protection or belays, we carefully worked our way up."

Watch videos of the ascent of Jobo Rinjang:

Missing video!

Missing video!

Missing video!

This ascent was supported by Petzl , La Sportiva , Sterling Ropes, Sherpa Adventure Gear , Cilo Gear and Feathered Friends


This post has been read 6,374 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

5 May, 2009
Awesome effort and report. It seemed hard enough just to trek aounrd these Khumbu peaks, inspiring to stick neck out and get up amongst them, and great to think that unclimbed stuff of this quality is still out there in a popular accesible region.
5 May, 2009
Great story :-) Well done to these guys. I really enjoyed the story and video footage of their last first ascent in Nepal as well. Thanks Tony
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email