UKC

Another Nepal First Ascent for American Team

© Joseph Puryear
David Gottlieb on Jobo Rinjang, with a view south across the valley behind.  © Joseph Puryear
David Gottlieb on Jobo Rinjang, with a view south across the valley behind.
© Joseph Puryear
Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) in Nepal only six months after their first ascent of Kang Nachugo (see UKC News) in the Rolwaling Himal, also in Nepal.

Joseph comments on his blog:

"It is with great happiness that David and I report the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct south face, in the Khumbu Region of Nepal, climbing alpine style over 6 days (from April 20 to April 25), summiting on April 22nd."

"We packed up our kit and left base camp in Lunag (5,050 meters) on April 20th. The first part of our journey was to cross the great confluence of the Nangpa La and Lunag Glaciers, then make our way west up the Lunag Glacier to the base of the face. The total distance was over 4 kilometres of very tedious (and perhaps dangerous) rubble-filled, boulder-shifting, ice and rock maze."

David Gottlieb reaching a belay on Jobo Rinjang  © Joseph Puryear
David Gottlieb reaching a belay on Jobo Rinjang
© Joseph Puryear
"We awoke in the wee hours of the morning and started heading up the mess of ice, snow, and rock scrambling to gain the initial ice path. Once we hit the blue ice, we started simul-climbing."

"As we got higher, the going got slower, mainly due to altitude and fatigue. We began to wonder if the ice would ever end. As the day wore on, the weather started changing for the worse, but we continued our ascent, and started pitching out some steeper sections."

"Above our bivy, the climbing changed from ice to our favourite: steep unconsolidated snow flutings.  With no real protection or belays, we carefully worked our way up."

Watch videos of the ascent of Jobo Rinjang:

Missing video!

Missing video!

Missing video!

This ascent was supported by Petzl , La Sportiva , Sterling Ropes, Sherpa Adventure Gear , Cilo Gear and Feathered Friends

 


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5 May, 2009
Awesome effort and report. It seemed hard enough just to trek aounrd these Khumbu peaks, inspiring to stick neck out and get up amongst them, and great to think that unclimbed stuff of this quality is still out there in a popular accesible region.
5 May, 2009
Great story :-) Well done to these guys. I really enjoyed the story and video footage of their last first ascent in Nepal as well. Thanks Tony
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