UKC

British Juniors - Big Ticks In Font

© www.climbingmasterclass.com

Shauna Coxsey climbing Rubis sur Angle, 7b+ at Gorge au Chat  © Shauna Coxsey Collection
Shauna Coxsey climbing Rubis sur Angle, 7b+ at Gorge au Chat
© Shauna Coxsey Collection
Some of Britain's talented junior climbers were spotted tearing it up in Fontainebleau during the spell of fine weather over Easter.

Among them were Shauna Coxsey and Kitty Wallace.

16 year old Shauna Coxsey made light work of a string of problems in the high Font 7s, most notably Alta (f7C) at Isatis.  Although there is some discussion about the grade of Alta (it is written at Font 7C+ in one guide and Font 7B+ in another), it is still a powerful proposition and Shauna dispatched it in just a few tries.

I just want to get back there this winter when the conditions are good!

Shauna Coxsey on Fontainebleau

 

Shauna also made a quick ascent of Le Carnage assis (f7C) (Font 7C), at Bas Cuvier and the very crimpy Rubis sur l'Ongle (f7B+) (Font 7B+) at Gorge au Chat. In addition she climbed a string of Font 7B's including the burly Biceps Mou (Black 6) (f7B) at Bas Cuvier.


Shauna is perhaps best known for her competition prowess, having won the Sky Masters in Birmingham back in April and placed highly in EYS (European Cup) events last year, but she claims to be "far more psyched for outdoor climbing at the moment".

She has climbed two French 8a routes recently (Watermark in Spain and Raindogs at Malham) and the obvious question was whether she would be returning to Font for an 8A boulder.

Kitty Wallace trying hard on Carnage, 7B+, Bas Cuvier  © www.climbingmasterclass.com
Kitty Wallace trying hard on Carnage, 7B+, Bas Cuvier
© www.climbingmasterclass.com
"I just want to get back there this winter when the conditions are good!" was all she had to say on the subject.

Credit should also go to Shauna's British junior team mate Kitty Wallace, who climbed Carnage (Font 7B+) via the stand start and several 7A's at the age of 14. 

Stats on bouldering achievements for British juniors are hard to track down, but both climbers have almost certainly set records for females at their respective age categories.

British junior males evidently have Tyler Landman's act to follow and Font 8B would appear to be the line in the sand for a male under 17.

View a photo gallery of the Fontainebleau trip below:

Shauna Coxsey climbing at Gorge au Chat  © Shauna Coxsey Collection
Shauna Coxsey climbing at Gorge au Chat
© Shauna Coxsey Collection
Shauna Coxsey climbing at Roche aux Sabots  © Shauna Coxsey Collection
Shauna Coxsey climbing at Roche aux Sabots
© Shauna Coxsey Collection
Shauna Coxsey climbing Carnage (sit start), 7c at Bas Cuvier  © Shauna Coxsey Collection
Shauna Coxsey climbing Carnage (sit start), 7c at Bas Cuvier
© Shauna Coxsey Collection
Kitty Wallace climbing Carnage, 7B+, Bas Cuvier  © www.climbingmasterclass.com
Kitty Wallace climbing Carnage, 7B+, Bas Cuvier
© www.climbingmasterclass.com



Report by Neil Gresham - climbingmasterclass.com


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27 May, 2009
Big well done Shauna & Kitty :-) And on the EYC result as well Kitty
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