George Ullrich - Hard Trad in North Wales

© George Ullrich Collection
George Ullrich on Overlord (E7/8)  © George Ullrich Collection
George Ullrich on Overlord (E7/8)
© George Ullrich Collection
George Ullrich, the young Cumbrian climber now based in North Wales, nipped out to make the most of last week's good weather by onsighting The Clown (E7 6b) on North Stack Wall, Gogarth, and headpointing the scary Overlord (E7/8) on the upper tier of Dinas Cromlech.

North Stack Wall is famous for it's bold crimpy wall climbs, many of which (including The Clown) were first climbed by John Redhead back in the early 1980's.

The Clown is considered the easiest of the E7's on this wall and has had many onsight ascents, however it is still a fearsome lead, with bold, snappy sections interspersed by harder, but better protected climbing.

Overlord was first climbed by an on-form Steve Mayers in 1992, just after he completed his ascent of Nightmayer (E8), a blank wall climb below Overlord on one of the most famous walls in the country - the right wall of Dinas Cromlech. Steve originally graded Overlord E7. James McHaffie made the first repeat of this route two years ago and suggested an upgrade to E8 after he had to resort to top-rope inspection to complete the route.

George Ullrich climbed the route after top-rope inspection last week making the third overall ascent of this bold, blunt arête.

James described the route after his ascent in 2007:

"The first five metres is unprotected E5 climbing, leading to a peg and wire. These are passed rapidly by a host of dynamic 6b slaps leading to the next runner (a poor downward pointing peg)... I got more and more pumped placing the last runners, two poor skyhooks. The crux lies above and the peg/hooks lie between you and a quick ride down Cenotaph Corner... The skyhooks flew off as I convulsed up side-pull edges to the sanctuary of the top. Sucking in the summit feeling I thought about Steve 'sandbagger' Mayers and his 'onsight-able E7"

Both Steve Mayers' routes Nightmayer and Overlord are yet to see an onsight ascent.

George Ullrich starred in the recent film Call It What You Want by Steep Media in which he travelled America climbing some hard and bold routes. You can read a review of the film and find out a little more about George in this UKClimbing Review.

George Ullrich on Overlord (E7/8)  © George Ullrich Collection
George Ullrich on Overlord (E7/8)
© George Ullrich Collection
George Ullrich on Overlord (E7/8)  © George Ullrich Collection
George Ullrich on Overlord (E7/8)
© George Ullrich Collection

In the video below is George attempting to flash the gritstone E8 Gaia at Black Rocks.

Missing video!

George Ullrich is sponsored by Evolv , prAna and Metolius

This post has been read 12,119 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC porter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

29 May, 2009
Well done George Good to hear you are slotting into Bangor this year
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email