UKC

Russian new routes in Greater Ranges

© Simone Moro
Reported by Dougald MacDonald:

Kazakh climber Denis Urubko has summited 8,201-meter Cho Oyu by an alpine-style ascent of the difficult southeast face, a stylish finish to his quest to climb all 14 8,000-meter peaks...

...Urubko and partner Boris Dedeshko climbed a new line to the left of the Polish pillar. The two spent more than a week on the climb and descent, including sitting out a storm at 7,600 meters.

Full report: Climbing.com


Reported by Lindsay Griffin:

Russians Mikhail Mikhailov and Alexander Ruchkin have climbed most likely the hardest technical line to date in the Minya Konka Group of Chinese Sichuan...

...During their acclimatization they spotted a superb rock pillar on the unnamed and unclimbed Pt 6,134m, that lies north west of Edgar and close to Grosvenor.

The pillar faced south, was steep enough to shrug off most fresh snow, and offered an attractive alternative. When the weather began to clear, the two switched objectives, and after a bivouac at the base, climbed the 1,000m-high pillar to the South East Top, making four further bivouacs.

Full report on The BMC Website


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