UKC

World Bouldering Round-Up Video

© Bernhard Schwaiger / schwaigerbrothers.com
Bernhard Schwaiger - first ascent of Hurricane, Birgkar, Austria.  © Bernhard Schwaiger / schwaigerbrothers.com
Bernhard Schwaiger - first ascent of Hurricane, Birgkar, Austria.
© Bernhard Schwaiger / schwaigerbrothers.com
Bernhard Schwaiger has made the first ascent of Hurricane, Birgkar, Austria. He estimates the difficulty to be a mighty Font 8C. More info: Schwaigerbrothers Website.

Listed on The Low Down is the 6 problems of around Font 8C that Schwaiger has climbed:

  • Zunami, 8C, FA, Saalachtal
  • Pipe dream, 8B+/C, FA, Saalachtal
  • Memento, 8B/C, 2nd ascent, Silvretta
  • Anam Cara, 8C-ish, 2nd ascent, Silvretta
  • Dust devil, 8C-ish, FA, Saalachtal
  • Hurricane, 8C-ish, FA, Birgkar

Fred Moix has grabbed the 3rd ascent of Underground Paradise, (Font 8B+), Fionnay, Switzerland (Video Below).

VIDEO: Fred Moix repeats Underground Paradise

Missing video!

Nalle Hukkataival - Sunseeker - Font 8B  © Jon Cardwell / Nalle Hukkataival
Nalle Hukkataival - Sunseeker - Font 8B
© Jon Cardwell / Nalle Hukkataival
Reported on the UKC forums is Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival's fast repeat of the very famous problem Jade (V15 / Font 8C) in RMNP (Rocky Mountain National Park), Colorado, USA.

Nalle ticked the problem in marginal weather commenting on his blog:

"Right when I fell on the pads I looked into the valley and noticed it was already snowing and saw a huge blizzard coming towards us. I knew this was my last change and with no rest I started climbing. I got through the crux, stuck the sidepull and got to the good rail. At this point it was snowing really hard and I saw some water dripping from the top. Carefully grabbing the holds I topped it out in the rain! In total Jade took me two days and around ten full tries from the start."

He then went on to add a new highball Font 8B in the Mt Evans area a few days later. Sunseeker is described on his blog thus:

"This tall and proud line climbs a sloping rail on a perfect steep overhang, leading to a horrifying mantle high off the deck. It has a good obvious starting hold and about 21 moves, all of them upwards. The bottom part climbing into the stand is probably around V12 and after that you still have to do do stand start which is a technical highball V10. At the moment there is still snow on the landing making it possible to take falls without getting hurt, but when the snow melts it will most likely be a death landing."

More info: Nalle's blog.

And last but not least, Kornelius Obleitner has repeated Bernd Zangerl's Anam Cara, (Font 8C-ish), at Silvretta, Austria. There is a video of his ascent here: Chalkjunkie


This post has been read 5,728 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

As climbers we strive to make UKClimbing.com the kind of website we would love to visit, with the most up-to-date news, diverse and interesting articles, comprehensive gear reviews, breathtaking photographs and a vast and useful logbook system. As a result, an incredible community has formed around the site - we’ve provided the framework but it’s you who make the website what it is today. If you appreciate the content we offer then you can help us by becoming an official UKC Supporter. This can be a one-off single annual payment or a more substantial payment paid monthly or yearly which includes full access to Rockfax Digital and discounts on Rockfax print publications.

If you appreciate UKClimbing.com then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital.
  • Plus 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Plus Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts
UKC/UKH/Rockfax logo

29 Jun, 2009
clearly he can't claim the tick!
29 Jun, 2009
At the very least he owes everybody on UKC a beer! :) J
Loading Notifications...
Facebook Twitter Copy Email LinkedIn Pinterest