Reading my post from yesterday, I realize it doesn't really make much sense unless you're a mind reader. I'm blaming the wine... I'll try keep make it clearer by keeping it short.
The 8B/V13 span seems to have grown
The 8B+/V14 grade has become harder, but the span also seems to be smaller.
The 8C/V15 and above has yet to settle and is very much speculation.
One possibility could be that it's become increasingly important to "keep it real". Better safe than sorry, where "being sorry" means inflating grades and "safe" sandbagging. If you're not absolutely certain a problem is at least 8B+, you give it 8B.
One reason why some of Fred Nicole's problems have been down graded is he never thought this way. He simply suggested the grades he felt were correct and never thought of it as tht important.
I'm just speculating as I still find 8B+, and even 8B, quite difficult;). It would be very interesting if someone who actually knows what he's talking about could comment on this.
And yeah, that's right Kairn has a new interview with Mr Sharma, who apperently flashed, Infinity lane, a 100m(!) 8b+/c during the Petzl RocTrip at Millau the day before yesterday.
Chris Sharma on 'Infinity lane', 8b+/c, by Sam Bié.