Loading Notifications...

Japanese Junior - New Burbage E9

© rachaeldanks, 13 Aug 2009
Elm Street (E8), Millstone, being soloed by Toru Nakajima.
© rachaeldanks, Aug 2009

Toru Nakajima Ticks Peak District Project:

15 year old Toru Nakajima has continued his gritstone rampage with ascents of Elm Street (E8) at Millstone and the project arete right of Simba's Pride at Burbage which he has named Black Out - at a proposed a grade of E9 6c.

Commenting on the grade Toru said simply:

"It was harder than Simba's Pride (E8) and easier than Equilibrium (E10)."

Black Out (E9 6c) takes a bold line left of Roof Route at Burbage South and features unprotected climbing on slopers and poor pockets, with a dynamic move to reach the top of the crag. Toru opted to solo the line instead of placing a side runner in Roof Route, which would only protect the easier lower-half. He climbed the route with no spotters above one small bouldering mat.

The line is only around 7 or 8 metres high and Toru described it as "a highball with a bad landing."

The youngster from Japan has made quite a run on the boulders as well as the routes, climbing several problems in very quick time up to around V11, including a flash ascent of the Stanage classic Brad Pit (V10) in mid-summer heat.

He has been looking at several harder lines in the Peak, including Equilibrium, on which he managed all of the moves but one, straight off. The intensely friction dependant route is thought to be around F8b+ in difficulty.

Unfazed by the hot and damp conditions Toru commented:

"To me it feels cold, I think the conditions are good."

He has even had time to experience Peak District climbing at its finest with a trip to Stoney Middleton in the rain to climb Bitter Fingers and Wee Doris (both E4). "Very good routes, very nice." he said.

It hasn't all been plain sailing, the gritstone did manage to bite back a few days ago. Toru fell from very high on Ulysses' Bow (E6) on his onsight attempt, landing hard. "Very bad." he said. "Hurt my shoulder, back and bottom, very bad.".

With just under a week left in the UK, the Japanese climbing phenomenon has big plans - watch this space for more updates and video footage of Toru's trip.

To read about Toru's earlier exploits see this UKC News Item

This post has been read 14,188 times

Return to Latest News

Support UKC

We need your help.

UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. The site will continue to be mainly funded by a subtle level of outdoor-only advertising but we now need extra support to ensure we can continue to provide the UKC that we all know and love.

You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax.

If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter.

UKC Supporter

  • Support the website we all know and love
  • Access to a year's subscription to the Rockfax App.
  • 30% off Rockfax guidebooks
  • Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts

21 Aug, 2009
very impressive, more so that he enjoyed stoney, what a good chap.
21 Aug, 2009
Loving what this kid is doing, confirms all our prejudices about the glory of Peak grit! :-)
21 Aug, 2009
fine effort from a lad i feel we are going to hear more about in future !
21 Aug, 2009
Another great news item.
22 Aug, 2009
But what's he ever done on choss?
More Comments
Facebook Twitter Email LinkedIn Pinterest