Gibson climbs major new line on Wimberry

Miles Gibson beneath his new route at Wimberry. The chalk shows the line of Dangermouse, E9, 130 kb
Miles Gibson beneath his new route at Wimberry. The chalk shows the line of Dangermouse, E9
© Ben Heason
Miles Gibson has succeeded on a major new route at Wimberry near Sickbay Shuffle. He called the route Dangermouse and gave it a grade of E9 7a. "You get gear behind a crack (on Bertie's Bugbear) and a flake on the arete. That's it though, there is no more gear."

Miles climbed the route late on Saturday after waiting for the right cooler conditions. He has been trying it on and off for the last two months but the conditions proved very frustrating. When it was cool in August it was wet, and since the weather improved, it has usually been too warm.

The steep direct arete below Sickbay Shuffle is one of many 'last great problems' at Wimberry. Over the years this wonderful crag has given up its treasures sporadically with Kevin Thaw's Sectioned, E8 being the last major new route in 2004. However there are still plenty of gaps and perhaps Miles' new route might spur some more interest in this superb crag.

The topo below shows the intense middle section of the crag. There are still plenty of gaps up here including the awesome wall right of Blue Light's Crack. It looks like we can look forward to 'last great problems' for many years to come. With 2 x E9s, 3 x E8s, 3 x E7s and 6 x E6s on the crag, surely this must now rival Burbage South and Black Rocks and the Peak District's highest concentration of hard and bold trad? - perhaps it just needs an E10 to take the crown!

Wimberry central section. Is there anywhere to compare with this for hard trad?, 173 kb
The central section of Wimberry

1 Order of the Phoenix E8 6c
2 Berlin Wall E6 6c
3 Sectioned E8 6c
4 Neptune's Tool E6 6c
5 Wristcutter's Lullaby E6 6c
6 MaDMAn E8 6b
7 Dangermouse E9 7a
8 The Possessed E7 6b
9 Appointment With Fear E7 6b
10 Appointment with Death E9 6c

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