New 5.14 Super-Crack at Vedauwoo, USA

Justin Edl on Home on the Range, 5.14  © Rob Harder
Justin Edl on Home on the Range, 5.14
© Rob Harder
Justin Edl has climbed what could be one of the hardest crack pitches in America with his recent ascent of Home on the Range (5.14 / F8b+?) at Vedauwoo, Wyoming.

Describing the route on Mountain Project he said:

"The grade on this is nothing but a proposition, and it is meant to be honest when compared to other crack climbs around the U.S. Matt Segal checked out the line before I did the FA and he told me he felt that it was solid 14, so it might even be on the stiff side. I was going to call it 13+, but after hearing what Matt thought I decided to split the difference. Repeats will help settle the grade, up or down. For me, the one time I TR'd it, I felt like it was equivalent to a power endurance V11, and putting in the gear on lead adds quite a bit to the difficulty in my opinion."

Vedauwoo is a well known off-width and crack climbing destination, with such horrors as Lucille (See UKC News ) and other elephant-bum features.

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2 Sep, 2009
looks about HVS
2 Sep, 2009
Probably not going to go off-route, are you. Cheers, FT.
2 Sep, 2009
Looks like a Curbar VS to me. I assume it overhangs hugely?
2 Sep, 2009
Doesn't look like it does. Looks about HS in this shot!
2 Sep, 2009
"It is a very right-arching, flared splitter on a lightly overhanging wall."
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