New E8 for Fairhead

© Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Andy Marshall inspecting The Dark Side before his successful ascent.  © Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Andy Marshall inspecting The Dark Side before his successful ascent.
© Craig Hiller / Hillerscapes
Andy Marshall has climbed a new route on the Bingagapple area of Fairhead, Northern Ireland.

The Dark Side (E8 6c) takes the obvious orange wall right of the classic E4 Track of the Cat.

Commenting on the photography and climbing website Hillerscapes, Andy said:

"It's that sort of route that has gear but it's all behind flakes that flex. The quality of rock at the bottom is very flaky and very scary. The top half has solid holds and just gets uber scary with a mad long run out.

The ledges in the middle are a blessing and a hindrance as they provide a rest with a super view but man leaving it is hard knowing the top climbing is still to come.

This left me with real mind games and I decided  I just had to get it done and stop thinking about it."

Thanks go to Craig Hiller of Hillerscapes for the photo.

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29 Oct, 2009
Effort lad :)
29 Oct, 2009
Looks good. Out of interest was this done ground-up or after practice? I was just wondering if there was still a strict ground-up ethic at Fairhead or if things have changed a bit? Good effort either way.
29 Oct, 2009
Hiya Aly, After practicing for about a year, according to Craig's website. I don't know if there ever was a strict ground-up ethic at Fairhead (...there may well have been, I just don't know). There has always been a strict trad ethic however. The newer routes like Ricky Bell's E9 The Complete Scream would be quite an undertaking ground-up and would require an unusual rack too, including sky hooks, gaffer tape and blue tack :-) Looks a cracking line. Gonna book a trip home for April I think, though I think this might be a bit (at least six grades) beyond me! All the best, Danny
29 Oct, 2009
OK, cool. I just seem to remember reading an article in an old OTE with James Pearson trying the bolt-less direct start to Primal Scream (?) - since become The Complete Scream?? - ground-up as pre-practice wasn't 'allowed'. Maybe I'm just imagining things. Anyway, I must drag myself over to Ireland at some point, the place looks awesome. Cheers.
29 Oct, 2009
There's not a ground up ethic for 1st ascents, since everything needs a good clean first (so I'm reliably informed). Though some stuff gets done after abb-cleaning and inspection but not pre-practice (Marshall did an E6/7 thing like that last year I think). Complete Scream is indeed the Primal Scream direct start - E8, though I think Heason said maybe e7? Rick headpointed it - it's the final route on Underdeveloped if you've got that. I've only done 1 day there but it's mega.
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