Last week I wrote about Matteo Gambaro's FA of Azione diretta, 8c+/9a it turns out. Here's a photo gallery. But Matteo isn't the only Italian 30-something-year-old to pull hard this October. At the Campo boulders of Cortina d'Ampezzo, Luca "Canon" Zardini and friends, has brushed off and free climbed a couple of variations to an old aid climb.
First, in 2007, Luca freed Welcome to the jungle, 8b+, and now, after a lot of work, and alot of waiting for the right conditions, Welcome to the club, 9a.
Check out the full story, in both Italian and English on Planet Mountain.
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