UKC

Adam Ondra - F9a First Go

© Philippe Maurel / Nice-climb.com
photo
Adam Ondra
© Philippe Maurel / Nice-climb.com
As reported on the Beal Team Website:

At Santa Linya in Spain Adam Ondra has onsighted the F8c+ La Fabela and instead of stopping to clip the chains he carried on, adding the finish of the Enmienda link-ups (this specific link is given an overall grade of F9a).

Ondra had already climbed the final section the Enmienda link when he did the F9a+ route Novena Enmienda back in February 2008, however re-climbing this section on his first go after onsighting La Fabela (F8c+) is an amazing achievement.

Although not a strict F9a onsight, this is a clear marker that the young Czech climber has what it takes to be the first to onsight a F9a route.

EDIT:

It seems there was some confusion on the Beal Team Website, the original source for this news information.

Adam has updated the info of this ascent on the 9b Website:

"Hey people,

Somebody has spread pretty wrong informations. The first pitch of the climb, La Fabela 8c+, wasn't onsight at all, since I had known all the moves from other routes like Open Your Mind (it has the same 8a-ish start), Fabelita and Cachasa, what is the new project I tried two days and has the same finish with Fabela. This finish is also crux for Fabela.

Thus I had climbed every single move in this pitch before! After the anchor of Fabela I climbed about ten meters that I had never climbed before (8a maximum) and the end is the same as Enmienda that I have climbed two years ago.

Nevertheless, this route can be onsighted in the future in my opinion, but the crux of the first pitch is quite tough for onsight and not very obvious.

Adam "


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15 Feb, 2010
if Adam is onsighting 8c/+ regularly and doing 9a very quickly why is he not putting up 9c etc? is that he just doesnt new route or is he focusing on ticking everything hard in the world before ploughing his own furrow?
15 Feb, 2010
time constraints/inspiration/suitable lines.......there are loads of reasons....he has lots of time, dont be so impatient.
15 Feb, 2010
Because he's not sure if he has even climbed 9b (see older News article on his route in Sardinia... or was it Corsica). And after all, he's a 16 year old kid... Think about it, when you were that young... well, most kids that age have about zero patience. Which is what is needed in abudance for creating new über hard routes... It's much easier to arrive somewhere, read the topo on where something hard is (or talk to the locals) and then give those a few goes. Then go home...
15 Feb, 2010
if he can do 9a in a day or two then, by extension, 9b nd so on must be possible in a relatively short time too. i appreciate it isnt a linear progression but his skill level seems to be so high that its unlikely that difficulty would be the limiting factor.
15 Feb, 2010
this is amazing. give the lad some credit and no negativity! no one else can do this!!!
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