UKC

Exclusive Video: Marshall/Smith Week

© Paul Diffley/Hotaches

VIDEO: Jimmy Marshall, King of the Ben


Dave MacLeod on Observatory Buttress  © Paul Diffley/Hotaches
Dave MacLeod on Observatory Buttress
© Paul Diffley/Hotaches
Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner have repeated the infamous week back in 1960 during which Jimmy Marshall and Robin Smith rampaged across Ben Nevis, leaving behind them a string of now absolute classic routes.

The routes (all first ascents except Point 5, which was a second ascent) that were climbed by Marshall and Smith were:

  • The Great Chimney (IV,5) 6th February 1960
  • Minus Three Gully (IV,5) 7th February 1960
  • Smith's Route (V,5) 8th February 1960
  • Observatory Buttress (V,4) 9th February 1960
  • Point Five Gully (V,5) 10th February 1960
  • Piggot's Route (V,6) 12th February 1960
  • Orion Direct (V,5) 13th February 1960

Paul Diffley of Hotaches Productions filmed MacLeod and Turner as they enjoyed a gruelling week up on the Ben based in the CIC hut:

"I was filming the close up angle from rope and cameraman Guy Heaton was filming the long shots. It was funny to see Guy walking out of the CIC hut with a one of the hut chairs strapped to his pack!" Paul commented.


photo
Dave MacLeod topping out on Observatory Buttress
© Paul Diffley/Hotaches

Paul Diffley Filming Dave MacLeod on Point Five Gully, Ben Nevis  © Guy Heaton
Paul Diffley Filming Dave MacLeod on Point Five Gully, Ben Nevis
© Guy Heaton
"I climbed over the cornice onto the summit plateau with my calf muscles burning to be greeted by bright sunshine and the most wonderful views of the highlands in winter."

The pair of top winter climbers also tried their hand at step cutting, using old ice axes, but the highlight for Paul Diffley was Point 5 Gully - see photo on the right.

"I think the day we filmed Point Five Gully was the best day's filming I've ever had. The Ben was in lovely condition and the light was beautiful.

I climbed over the cornice onto the summit plateau with my calf muscles burning to be greeted by bright sunshine and the most wonderful views of the highlands in winter. The combination of the adrenalin and endorphins from the climb, combined with the magnificent views and the knowledge that I'd just shot some really nice footage gave me a high that lasted all night.

I am planning on producing a full length film of the week combined with interviews from Jimmy Marshal and other climbers active at the time. This will be released in autumn 2010. Working Title, 'A Week On The Ben'."


photo
Guy Heaton filiming
© Guy Heaton


The week was supported by Mountain Equipment, and Paul Diffley was guided by Donald King from Abacus Mountaineering.


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22 Feb, 2010
Another UKC video that doesn't work for me. Please, please can you upload them to Vimeo instead and embed? I know that won't have UKC branding, but isn't more important that as many people as possible can watch the videos? Or am I the only one that has problems?
We are getting 33% completion on it which is quite good (that means people actually watching to the last frame). We are getting 29% stutter on it which, again, isn't particularly high. However we are aware that sometimes the UKC Videos fail to start on some machines. Nick is away at the moment though so there is nothing we can do this week. We will run this one as a UKC exclusive for a while and then put it on Vimeo later. Alan
22 Feb, 2010
All terribly fine stuff, but why is it described as the 'infamous' week? Surely it was famous and glorious? Infamous suggests there was something wrong with it.
22 Feb, 2010
An excellent wee bit of film - long live The Maister.
22 Feb, 2010
Enjoyed the film, but when I maximise it to fill the screen it does so in both axes, resulting in squished heads. Can you force it to retain the aspect ratio of the file when in full screen please?
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