New VIII,8 on the Black Ladders, Wales

Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders), Cwm Llafar., 228 kb
Ysgolion Duon (Black Ladders), Cwm Llafar.
© David Dear, Jan 2010

Chris Parkin and Pete Harrison have climbed a new route on the in vogue Black Ladders, North Wales.

Reported on the V12 Outdoor site:

Tora Bora (VIII 8, 6, 4, 5) takes a line between Broken Ceasefire and Imminent Conflict. The main pitch involves a turfy groove, a hanging crack, then a flake crack finishing with a desperate move right to turfy ledges.

Pete thought it to be harder than Blenderhead VII 8 on Clogwyn Du, and Chris thought it was nearly as technical as the crux pitch of Cannon Ball VI 8, albeit with much less gear, thus the grade of VIII.

The line was attempted previously by another team when they thought it was Imminent Conflict. They retreated from the route and left some gear.

This video shows their accidental attempt and retreat from what is now Tora Bora, followed by an ascent of the correct line of Imminent Conflict:

VIDEO: Imminent Conflict

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