Dirty Dry-Tooler Named and Shamed

© Guy Robertson
Pete 'dirty dry-tooler' Macpherson on Redemption VIII,7  © Guy Robertson
Pete 'dirty dry-tooler' Macpherson on Redemption VIII,7
© Guy Robertson

Pete 'classic scratcher' Macpherson waves for the camera...  © Guy Robertson
Pete 'classic scratcher' Macpherson waves for the camera...
© Guy Robertson
There has been much debate on the UKC forums of late concerning the climbing of winter routes when they are not white. Yes. It's true and you had better believe it.

“...expose this classic-scratching monster...”

Dave MacLeod has been under the spotlight for his ascent of Anubis. Pete Macpherson and Guy Robertson have also had a good grilling for Super Rat - quite right too. And it is this team that are in for it big style this time.

An anonymous source has written to UKC expressing outrage:

Dear UKC,

I feel compelled to inform you of a recent misdemeanour on Lochnagar.  I took these photographs of Pete Macpherson, leading Scottish winter activist, during his supposed second winter ascent of Redemption (VIII,7). 

As you'll see from the picture, this really is taking dry tooling one step too far!  First the acres of dry, black rock on Super Rat, and now this!

I tried shouting at him from the plateaux to stop and come down otherwise I'd post the pictures on the internet, but as you'll see from his gesturing he wasn't having any of it (note - see friendly hand signal in photo on right...).

He genuinely seems to think this is real Scottish winter conditions!  I feel really strongly that wannabes like Macpherson are leading the masses into a terrible abyss of laissez faire disregard for our precious rock resource, and an ever-deepening quagmire of ethical dirt and grime. 

For that reason I'd like you to put these pictures on UKC to expose this classic-scratching monster for what he really is.


Concerned of Aberdeen

UKC Reply:

Dear Concerned,

That Macpherson bloke is really out of order this time. We at UKC are going to post his picture all over the internet and then he'll be in big trouble. Don't you worry.

Pete Macpherson on Redemption VIII,7
© Guy Robertson


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19 Mar, 2010
Dirty Cheats!
19 Mar, 2010
Burn him with fire!
19 Mar, 2010
Shouldn't you be working on the trad 2009 article?
19 Mar, 2010
Does it really matter in what state a route is in order to be able to climb it, I mean like if the route is essentially a climbing route, which would be climbed on mostly in the summer and not particularly made as a winter route, but still climbed in winter? If the bloke wants to climb it in winter, so be it, leave him alone, like whats the big deal with climbing it in winter as long as he knows what hes up to?
19 Mar, 2010
I don't know owt about ice climbing, is the problem that that is more like snow than ice?
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