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Major New Route on Mt. Logan, Canada

© Katsutaka Yokoyama
Okada traversing on Day 3, high on the route.   © Katsutaka Yokoyama
Okada traversing on Day 3, high on the route.
© Katsutaka Yokoyama

  • Full report by Dougald MacDonald with photos and comments from the ascensionists on Climbing.com

Japanese climbers Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama have completed one of the great unclimbed walls in North America: the south face of Mt. Logan, Canada's highest peak.

In early May, the two men climbed the 2,500-meter (8,200') wall alpine-style over three long days, and then continued to the east summit of Logan at 5,900 meters (19,357'), before descending via the extremely long east ridge.

The Japanese route climbs the steepest wall on Logan's broad south face, to the right of the Warbler Ridge. The face had attracted many suitors over the past two decades, including the Alaska-Yukon ace Jack Tackle, who attempted the route twice over a 10-year span, getting about 3,000 feet up the wall both times.

  • Full report by Dougald MacDonald with photos and comments from the ascensionists on Climbing.com

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19 May, 2010
Awesome - if Jack failed on it twice it shows the quality of this ascent.
20 May, 2010
I spent time on Logan in 2003 and the conditions can be outrageous. It's also VERY remote in the event of something going wrong. This is a major achievement! Well done to all involved and warmest congratulations.
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