Sonnie Trotter - New 5.14 Trad Route

© Sonnie Trotter Collection
Sonnie Trotter working his new route Sugar Daddy on top rope  © Sonnie Trotter Collection
Sonnie Trotter working his new route Sugar Daddy on top rope
© Sonnie Trotter Collection
Sonnie Trotter, the Canadian climber best known in the UK for his repeat of Rhapsody (E11, Dumbarton), is currently in Joshua Tree, the stunning granite area in California, where he has made the first repeat of Stingray, a hard and steep 'thin fingers' crack.

Speaking to on email last night Trotter said:

"Just yesterday I made the second ascent of Stingray (hard) 5.13d here in Joshua Tree, California.  It's probably the second hardest crack climb I've ever done.  I was very happy.  It's such a beautiful and powerful line."

He has been blogging about his attempts on Stingray on, and he described the route:

"I tried the climb back in February, and it's truly an amazing line, tight fingers and steep and leaning.  I flashed the crux moves on TR, and thought it felt like a 5.13b-ish.  I was expecting to do the route in a day or two.  But then, UNFORTUNATELY, on my second attempt, I broke the most crucial foothold on the climb, and now, it's really hard, probably solid 5.13d.  But it's hard to say because it's so f 'n painful. I haven't stuck the crux yet, but I can link from there to the top, so it might happen any day now, unless I tear a huge flapper, or blow out my elbows, both of which are highly possible,  at the same time even."

Trotter also mentions in his latest blog that he has succeeded on his project closer to home at Squamish, Canada, a beautiful but desperately hard overhanging arete:

"I climbed a project of mine which I was really happy about.  An overhanging arete.  It's the sort of feature you look up at and WISH it had holds on it.  This one did, but barely.  I tried the line last spring, and found the tiny crimps that linked it all together... I reckon the line is a 5.11 to a V10/V11 to a 5.12b.  It's the direct start to Big Daddy Overhang, so we called it Sugar Daddy, and I suggested a rating of 5.14 because of it's bouldery nature, an endurance climber might find it hard, a boulderer might find it easy."

After a winter lay-off with a ruptured appendix it seems Sonnie Trotter is back on excellent form and UKClimbing wish him the best of luck for his summer projects.

Sonnie Trotter is sponsored by Patagonia , Five Ten , Black Diamond , Joe Ryders and Sterling Rope

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28 May, 2010
What an awesome line!
28 May, 2010
Isn't it? I have to disagree with Sonnie though (speaking of course from my, ahem, extensive experience of cutting edge trad climbing) - I'm not sure even the strongest bouldering monsters would find V11 "easy" while trying to place gear! :)
28 May, 2010
Fair play! But it looks like there is in the photo.
28 May, 2010
Got to love Sonnies style and enthusiasm. His blog is one of the best out there. Keep pulling hard dude!
28 May, 2010
That photo's too small to see any placements. Anyone know what the gear is? E
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