UKC

Arco Rockmaster 2010 Video/photos

© Jack Geldard / UKC
French climber Alizée Dufraisse competing in the women's finals at Arco 2010.   © Jack Geldard / UKC
French climber Alizée Dufraisse competing in the women's finals at Arco 2010.
© Jack Geldard / UKC

Stew Watson climbing his way to 12th place in the bouldering comp.  © Jack Geldard / UKC
Stew Watson climbing his way to 12th place in the bouldering comp.
© Jack Geldard / UKC
The picturesque town of Arco, Italy, was invaded by hordes of muscle-bound rock stars last weekend as the annual Rockmaster competition hit full flow.

The town plays permanent host to a huge competition stadium, which sits underneath towering limestone walls and next to the beautiful blue river. All the big names in competition climbing show up to try their luck in one of the most prestigious events in the world.

There are several aspects to the Rockmaster; the Lead competition, the Boulder competition, the Speed competition and my personal favourite - The Duel. The Duel comp is like a 'Speed Lead', similar to the Skymasters event in the UK. The routes are not easy (out and out speed competitions are more like running up ladders of jugs, on top rope) but in these 'Speed Lead' comps the routes are quite tough, the climbers are leading and a mistake can mean falling off, and therefore coming in last place. It makes for exciting watching.

As well as the climbing competitions, there are climbing awards - the Arco Rock Legends Awards. UKClimbing.com were asked to sit on the jury for this award ceremony and we were proud to play a part in this celebration of climbing achievement. The 2010 awards went to Adam Ondra (Salewa climbing award) and Akiyo Noguchi (La Sportiva competition award). This year also saw a new award, the Sector award for a lifetimes achievement in climbing and this went to local legend Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla.

To get a feel for the 'Speed Lead' Duel competition you can see Duel Winner Adam Ondra battle it out for first place with Canadian Sean McColl in this video:

Climbing for the UK were Stew Watson, Gaz Parry and Katherine Mills. All three were in the bouldering competition. Stew Watson put in a good performance despite the cripplingly high temperatures, making it in to the semi finals and coming in a very respectable 12th place. Gaz Parry, a former Arco winner, finished in 27th place and Katherine Mills came in joint 25th.

The top five competition results were:

Men Boulder Top 5:

Rank Lastname Firstname Birthyear Nation
1 Lachat Cédric 1984 SUI
2 Gelmanov Rustam 1987 RUS
3 Hori Tsukuru 1989 JPN
4 Kaiser Francois 1993 FRA
5 Fischhuber Kilian 1983 AUT
6 Becan Klemen 1982 SLO

Women Boulder Top 5:

Rank Lastname Firstname Birthyear Nation
1 Stöhr Anna 1988 AUT
2 Shalagina Olga 1983 UKR
3 Noguchi Akiyo 1989 JPN
4 Bibik Olga 1976 RUS
5 Graftiaux Chloé 1987 BEL
6 Markovic Mina 1987 SLO

Men Lead Top 5:

Rank Lastname Firstname Birthyear Nation
1 Julian Puigblanque Ramón 1981 ESP
2 Schubert Jakob 1990 AUT
3 Ondra Adam 1993 CZE
4 AMMA Sachi 1989 JPN
5 Desgranges Romain 1982 FRA

Women Lead Top 5:

Rank Lastname Firstname Birthyear Nation
1 Kim Jain 1988 KOR
2 Posch Katharina 1994 AUT
3 Eiter Angela 1986 AUT
4 Eyer Alexandra 1981 SUI
5 Schranz Christine 1988 AUT

Photo Gallery - Arco Rockmaster 2010:

photo
The mens Lead Comp finalists: Usobiaga, McColl, Lachat, Desgranges, Amma, Schubert, Ondra, Puiblanque
© Jack Geldard / UKC
photo
The womens Lead Comp finalists: Ciavaldini, Schranz, Dufraisse, Markovic, Posch, Eiter, Eyer, Jain
© Jack Geldard / UKC
Ramon Julian Puiblanque happy to win the men's Lead Comp   © UKC News
Ramon Julian Puiblanque happy to win the men's Lead Comp
Kim Jain with a big smile after winning the women's lead comp  © UKC News
Kim Jain with a big smile after winning the women's lead comp
Cedric Lachat giving all to win the men's boulder comp  © UKC News
Cedric Lachat giving all to win the men's boulder comp
The crowd spur on Angela Eiter as she climbs to third place in the women's lead comp.  © UKC News
The crowd spur on Angela Eiter as she climbs to third place in the women's lead comp.
Adam Ondra takes the Salewa award at Arco in 2010  © UKC News
Adam Ondra takes the Salewa award at Arco in 2010
Akiyo Noguchi takes the La Sportiva award at Arco in 2010  © UKC News
Akiyo Noguchi takes the La Sportiva award at Arco in 2010
Kim Jain points the crux out to the runners up.  © UKC News
Kim Jain points the crux out to the runners up.
First and second place Puiblanque and Schubert shake hands as Ondra looks on.  © UKC News
First and second place Puiblanque and Schubert shake hands as Ondra looks on.

 


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21 Jul, 2010
The Duel route was 7c+. So a 15m 7c+ in 1 minute 30 seconds. The finalists did the route 3 times in about 30 minutes, the first time being on-sight. Cedric, the winner of the bouldering is a monster. Qualification for Boulder & Lead on the Friday, semis for both on the Saturday as well as the lead final, then he wins the bouldering final on the Sunday. And then he does the duel on the Sunday afternoon for a bit of relaxation.
21 Jul, 2010
Wow these guys are amazing! Ramon Puigblanque looks so short next to Ondra, does anyone know how tall he is? Does this mean I can no longer use height as an excuse?
22 Jul, 2010
To be fair the only reason Ondra's so tall is cos he has about 3 feet of neck.
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