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Lama about the Red Bull controversy

© David Lama
Austrian climber, David Lama has now decided to comment on what happened during his attempt to free climb the Compressor route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia.

In short, Lama says he regrets what happened, that this wasn't the plan and that he has learned from the mistakes made. He had his hands and mind full, and had to concentrate on his own climbing, leaving the safety of the film crew to be handled by a team of three mountain guides. This was agreed from the start. The main focus for the guides was the safety of the crew. Apparently the best option to guarantee this was to fix a line, using a total of 26 new bolts. Lama acknowledges the fact that there are plenty of cracks where you can place gear, but also says he understands why the guides opted for bolts instead as removable gear and inexperienced climbers, i.e the film crew, is a dangerous mix.

Lama also states that the plan always was to remove everything and leave the mountain as clean as possible, but that this was made impossible by exceptionally bad weather, even by Patagonian standards.

Finally he concludes that he will use a different tactic if he were to try it again. No bolts, even if this would make filming impossible

I've got a feeling we haven't heard the last word of this...

photo
David Lama
© David Lama

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26 Jul, 2010
does he drink Red Bull?
26 Jul, 2010
"he understands why the guides opted for bolts instead as removable gear and inexperienced climbers, i.e the film crew, is a dangerous mix." if that was/is the problem, ain't there film crews who are also experienced climbers??????
26 Jul, 2010
Can I go and See RedBull X-Fighters and feel guilt free now?
26 Jul, 2010
Look, it's not the first time RB have been caught up in an unethically sound wrangle. Just who these rock stars (or any pro athelete for that matter) decide to accept sponsorship from is their business. But if you fly with the crows etc Total cop-out imo and lends no further credence to their profoundly wanton acts.
26 Jul, 2010
Where has he posted these 'comments'. Seems like a new load of red-bull shit to me. Lets do a bit of analysis. 'he regrets what happened, that this wasn't the plan' - Quite obviously the plan wasn’t to put his whole sponsored climbing carrier in danger 'He had his hands and mind full' - Nice line but if he was heading up the expedition he would have already decided before they reached base camp weather they were going to be bolting or not. If the bolt kit was packed then he has no excuse. 'handled by a team of three mountain guides' - Pass the buck you little .... I take it your handler booked them and told them what you wanted of them. 'inexperienced climbers' - What the hell was he thinking taking inexperienced people onto Cerro Torre, this is almost as short-sighted as the bolts. Again commercialism over common sense. 'the plan always was to remove everything and leave the mountain as clean as possible' - This is the same crap argument he gave at the very start, again he has completely missed the point. Once the holes are drilled they can never be rectified to a natural 'clean' state 'he will use a different tactic if he were to try it again. No bolts, even if this would make filming impossible' - I take it he won’t be going again then. Cant his press office make him give at least one vaguely truthful answer rather then this slimy rubbish
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