UKC

Things that went down and things that didn't...yet

© Vojtech Vrzba

Kairn, who's talked to Belgian boulderer, Olivier Mignon, has the lowdown on the major sends at Magic Wood this summer.

Zach Lerner made the 3rd ascent, after Daniel Woods and Dai Koyamada, of Remembrance of things past, 8B+, in the darkness cave.

In the same cave Olivier Mignon made the 2nd ascent of Anthony Gullsten's recently put up Dark sakai, 8B. He also did One summer in paradise, 8B (the longer version of Pura vida). Sean McColl did the same, dispatching it second go. It should be noted that he rested a lot between the two tries. Two years to be precise.

Russian, Rustam Gelmanov, who was pulling on some real rock for a change, repeated New base line, 8B+.

and finally

Nacho Sanchez, a Spaniard residing in the UK, did The never ending story, 8B+.

photo
Adam Ondra on Unendliche Geschichte, 8B+, Magic wood
© Vojtech Vrzba

OK, now over to what could very possibly happen today a.k.a the "not yet news"

Paul Robinson's Rocklands trip is almost over. With only two days of climbing left, he's frustratingly close to making the 2nd ascent of Fred Nicole's Monkey wedding, 8C, having fallen with his fingertips in the jug marking the end of the difficult climbing several times. "How can a boulderer of Paul's caliber fall with his fingers in a jug?", you may ask.

Well, it is this difficult cross into a slot jug very hard to get fingers inside..

Regardless of if he succeeds or not, he'll arrive at his new home in Innsbruck 4 September, very psyched to get back to European rock again.

Meanwhile at Deverland/Dévérsé in southern France, the same McColl as above, is super close on PuntX, ~9a, if he hasn't done it already that is...


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